Spoo Kee, perhaps like most cats, assumes that everything his humans do, they do for him.  For example, laying out quilt pieces on the ground.  Naturally, Spoo Kee made a beeline for the colorful squares (for my nephew’s little sea-inspired quilt I mentioned before) as soon as he saw them, spread out in front of the big window in the living room.  I don’t know, maybe he’s just telling me what a perfect little picnic quilt this will be.

There’s this other funny thing Spoo Kee does.  (Ok, at least my husband and I think it’s funny.)  Spoo Kee, like most cats, is rather lazy and finds it difficult to leave his basket; there must be good reason.  But he is also – yes, once again, like most cats – very curious.   Sometimes my husband and I will be talking in the hall, between our offices, and I’ll look over and see Spoo Kee peering at us from his basket:

Curious and wondering, and yet not quite ready to leave his nest; he’s just not sure it’s worth the fuss.

Well, maybe it is.  Perhaps the front paws can venture out from the bed.

Sometimes this is as far as he gets.

I couldn’t wait to post these, I just had to show someone!  I’ve been collecting vintage hankies for years, not entirely sure what I was going to do with them (curtains?  quilt?  aprons?) and feeling quite the hoarder.  Last year I put “hankie dress” on my never-ending to do list and I finally got around to playing with the idea this past weekend.  I haven’t seen a dress like this before (I’ve seen little baby dresses made from hankies but not grown-up girl ones) and I’m pretty happy with the results so far.

I was going for something sweet and not too patchwork-y or hippy.  I used all the same colorway (for this one aqua and yellow/mustard hankies) to help pull the dress together.  I did very little to alter the hankies as I wanted to preserve the look of them.  I also wanted to avoid having to make a pattern.  I recently finished a sundress from a 1950s pattern that looks ok but I spent forever trying to get the fit right (and it still isn’t quite right, dang) and I’m just kind of over patterns right now.  (That’ll be short-lived, I’m sure!)

Basically this dress is just a tube of strategically placed hankies of varying size.  The fanciest part is the ruffle on the front made from a wee hankie that has been one of my favorites.  I’m not 100% sure I’m done yet but I’m very close!

Happy Monday!

I’m now the proud owner of a dickie.  I never thought I’d say that so feel free to laugh with me.  But this is not a silly polyester/cotton blend faux turtleneck sweater.   I don’t know how old this one is but it’s so pretty and, despite how delicate it is, it’s in such good condition.  I particularly love the bow/ruffle at the neck.  I’m either going to leave it as a dickie or somehow incorporate it in to a dress, perhaps as a bib.  Wouldn’t that be lovely?

I’m also adding to my collection of millinery flowers and rayon fabric.  Everything has a purpose; not that I’ve necessarily figured out the future lives of these treasure but I will – someday!

Last weekend a friend and I went to the Vintage Clothing & Textile Show in  Burbank.  It was a relatively small gathering of vendors but there were a ton of people there, so much so I felt a little overwhelmed at times.  Nonetheless I found some pretty things.  Some of the fabric I picked up is cute but kind of malodorous.  (Something I did not realize until I got home, of course.)  I spent some time searching online for remedies because, assuming the fabric in question was 60+ year old rayon, I wasn’t confident I could handwash it without suffering terrible consequences.

I posted a question in Etsy forums and lo and behold, answers!   The black fabric is now non-smelly and ready to be made into a little dress thanks to 1 part cheap vodka to 1 part water in a spray bottle.  But I have to tell you, the vodka/water solution I used on both pieces did not work out so well for the nutmeg-colored one.  Initially it toned down the funk but after several sessions the stench simply evolved into another smell, which reminded me of old crayons.  Pungent old crayons.  That led me to wonder if 1. The smell will ever leave, and 2. Is this even rayon?  Because, does rayon smell like smelly old crayons?  I’m no textile expert so I really don’t know.  But the smell was annoying enough that I took a chance and washed it.  First, I hand-washed it.  Now, it’s in the washing machine.  Yup, in the machine.  I mean, if it’s going to smell then it’s useless to me and I’m not going to pay a fortune at a fancy dry cleaner.  I’m just not.   (We’ll see what happens!)

UPDATE:  After washing the rayon in the machine, using the delicate cycle (which included a good, long soak in OxyClean and Arm & Hammer detergent) and tossing it in the dryer on low, the fabric has come out smelling good and not worse for wear!  Yay!

I also started two sewing projects this weekend: a 50s sundress in a kitschy Hawaiian print and a pair of shorts.  Shorts!  I’m excited about making a pair of shorts.  (I only have one pair, from the Gap Kids clearance section.)  I even made a muslin since fitting pants can be tricky.

Oh, and I’m working on the 2 Hour Sweater. So far I’ve logged WAY more than 2 hours for this project but it has been a breeze so far.

Stay tuned and Happy Week to you!

It’s here: Leda the Swan PDF pattern!  I’m really happy about her and I worked hard to get this pattern ready and posted to le shop.

Here’s another version with the capelet and GOLD sparkly crown!

In other shop news…

“Our Tree Dresses” 5×7 print.  This matte paper is gorgeous, the colors come out so vibrant. (Although my lack of picture-taking skills don’t do it much justice in my opinion!)

My new friends are nestled comfortably in the studio.

Thanks for looking!

xoxo

(Oh, and if you prefer Etsy, these items are posted there as well!)

I’m feeling a little giddy this morning because I finally finished up my little swan that I have been working on for AGES.  And when I say that, I’m not exaggerating.  For those of you that read my olde blog, do you remember this?:

I went back to the post to find the photo to show you and I reread it.  I totally forgot that this original version was 2 YEARS in the making, and that post is dated almost 1 year ago, to the date.  So, what, that makes this a 3-year craft project?!

Ha, I’m actually a little embarrassed to admit that it would take me that long to finish.   But I’ve become aware that may happen; I mean, just the other day I was saying I won’t commit to any sewing project on this blog because I know that it might take forever to finish (if at all).  But 3 years?  Sheesh.

Anyhow, back to the felt-y one.  Yay!  I’m glad she’s done.  I cut these pieces out a month ago and since I decided this new version was going to be stitched by hand, I figured that it would take me a long time to do it, so then I just didn’t feel like it.  You know, it’s very satisfying to post a project on this blog.  I feel like a little kid coming home from school, “Mom!  Look what I made!”

Ok, it’s not 100% finished finished. (Scandal!)  The crown is not stitched on yet, just kinda floats there for the picture.  Oh, I’ve decided that I love making silver pipe cleaner crowns.  Just bend bend bend.  Maybe I need metallic gold pipe cleaners too.  You know, for gold crowns.   And the wee scarf was a last minute thing as I still like my scalloped capelet from the first one.  But this scarfie is cute too.   I love the vintage foil-backed buttons attaching the wings but wouldn’t covered buttons be sweet as well?  And I’ve got some other ideas for the head dressing.  Oh!  Why don’t’ I just make felt critters all day?

Speaking of being tired, I’m feeling a little under the weather.  Besides lack of sleep, it must have something to do with the constant supply of chocolate chip and yellow cake, plus rum and sugar cane coke (in other words, sugar!) this past weekend.  Oh well.  My husband took me out for dinner since I didn’t feel like cooking and I had a nice, large bowl of tubu chigae which is spicy Korean tofu soup.  Despite my lack of desire to cook, I managed to make a trip to the grocery store after work when I was feeling ambitious in terms of what’s for dinner this week: grilled steak and arugula, French onion soup, roasted vegetables.  Oh, maybe some mushroom chicken too.   At the very least I can pop the vegies in the oven in the morning since they are not too much effort.

Anyway, on to sewing. Casey posted some wonderful vintage pieces she hopes to work on; my favorite being the 1930s jumper.  I love jumpers!  There is something very sweet and girlish about them, yet decidedly practical too.  I was inspired to look through my pattern stash and find some jumper patterns that I might want to work on.  I won’t commit at the moment, since you know how that goes!  I think it’s better if I practically finish something before I announce its inception on this blog, therefore we can all be pleasantly surprised by the finished product.

The pattern above is 1950s and the full-skirted version is pretty fabulous.  I’ve decided that I look good in this silhouette.  I wonder, though, if I could possibly have enough fabric?

I love this early 1940s jumper, on the right:

The blouse is pretty sweet too!

This early ’80s style reminds me of something my mom might have made and worn.  I even like that floral print.  It would be especially nostalgic in a fine wale corduroy.

I’m throwing in this non-jumper pattern because it’s another thing I find inspiring right now:

Oh my goodness, can you imagine me traipsing around L.A., sporting a bonnet??  But, really, too cute, yes?  Which one is your favorite?

I was looking for some photos in my folders which apparently don’t exist – have you ever thought you took photos of something but as it turns out, you didn’t?  Well, I’ll have to remedy that soon.  Anyway, I found some photos of a quilt I made for my friend Susan that I meant to show you last year but completely forgot!  I should probably share this with you know lest I want to wait until next fall.

Susan is distinctly an autumn person, at least in my mind anyway.  Anything maple-y/pumpkin-y/autumn-y makes me think of her and the cozy Arts and Crafts-inspired home she and her significant other have carved out for themselves.  (And I mean that almost literally – her boyfriend is quite skilled in wood-working and did most of the remodeling himself.)  For a long time I had been collecting fall-ish prints — acorns and autumn leaves, mostly — to make them a quilt, including some pieces found at a quilt shop on Bainbridge Island on a trip we took with her sister many years ago.

I think this pattern is called a Roman quilt although I’m not 100% sure of that.   It’s pretty easy to do but looks fairly intricate.  As you can see, 3 long rectangles to make a square; then each square turned 90 degrees from the one next to it to create the zigzag design.  The layers are held together with a variety of brownish buttons (ones that are smooth and flat so they don’t scratch or poke).

It’s a small thing, the right size for your lap, as you’re curled up with a book and a mug of tea.  I wish I had taken better photos of it but oh well, what can you do.  I’m happy with how it turned out and now it’s with Susan, where it belongs!

Speaking of tea, it’s time for mine.

Top: F21
Skirt: Handmade by me!
Shoes: Remix
Bag: Vintage Koret

I’ve previously eluded to having done some personal sewing and here it is!   I had also started a bunch of small pattern projects (some of which I actually started months ago, even last year!) for the shop but I constantly have shop/work on my mind (maybe that’s why my joints are all out of whack with too much computer use?)  and some selfish sewing is always good for a break.

I love denim skirts because the right one is like a favored pair of jeans: goes with everything, comfortable and durable.  And since autumn in L.A. is more like late summer in a lot of places, a short denim skirt and sandals is not at all inappropriate.  (Although it’s quite grey and cool today – love it!)

Here’s the pattern, from 1969:

I made version 1 with a few modifications: I omitted the waistband and finished the opening with some single fold bias tape on the inside; moved the zipper from the side to the back (to avoid that sometimes awkward bump a zipper can create at the bottom); used contrasting striped denim for the pockets (like something a train engineer would wear!); and used 2 buttons per pocket instead of one.

This skirt was fairly easy and light weight denim is a dream to sew – so easy!  And what you see is the skirt after I was* washed it which really left me worried – sometimes flappy pockets get all crumpled up post-washing but these stayed nice and flat – *phew!*

I liked these pockets so much I put them on my latest (and ubiquitous) Built by Wendy #3835 dress:

This time I used a floaty, medium weight dark grey linen with white pinstripes from Joann’s, from 2 years ago.  Made it the same way I’ve done in the past.  I was on the fence about adding the elasticized waist band but after seeing the photos I like it with without* it (this version anyway).  I made the length short to avoid that house dress/muumuu look and pairing it with some leggings seemed natural (and logical in this changing weather).  You know, there was a time that I said I would never wear leggings again!  I mean, I wore them in the 5th grade (with a chain belt and over-sized, button-down pastel plaid shirt) and I really thought I was over them (plus, I’m not into the 80s trend).  BUT, here, I think they work.  Like the skirt, this dress has been washed; I didn’t press it because I know it’s unlikely that I’ll iron this dress every time I wear it but the wrinkliness doesn’t bother me – it is linen after all.

I also made the covered buttons from vintage calico:

I was thinking of putting some similar buttons in the shop, just for kicks.

I have the darndest times taking photos of myself – do you?  Eeek, I had to take a bunch to get any decent ones; I really don’t feel that I’m that photogenic and when you combine that with bedhead and it being first thing in the morning, well, a lot ends up on the cutting room floor.  There were actually a few photos I thought were hilarious (where I look drugged, annoyed, coquettish, etc.) that I wanted to share with you but I really don’t want such silly (and embarrassing) images on my blog.

The photos I take for my blog are all ones I take myself, without a tripod but still utilizing the timer.  I end up in all kinds of funny stances.  On trips and such my husband must help me out, suggesting that I bend my right leg, turn to the side, etc. because often times I look like a five year old – standing stalk still, knees locked with a goofy look on my face!  I think I’ve gotten better though but it’s still tricky when you can’t see yourself on the screen.  But blog photos of home sewing projects are a little different than typical vacation pics.  I mean, they’re action shots, right?

Happy Friday!

*Note to self: Make sure to be fully awake when writing posts!

So, you all aren’t tired of hearing about my wedding, right?!  I guess since we still have 2 (or more?) little parties to go, it’s still on my mind.  Plus, I realized that I really didn’t talk about the specifics of my dress too much and thought the sewing and fashion folks, in particular, would be interested in learning more.

It was in this post where I talked about the pattern and fabric I thought I would use which, it turns out, I did.   This pretty, soft white lace with a border is something I’ve had for years.  (I didn’t know I’d end up using it for my wedding dress, really!)  Here’s the pattern again, from 1948, McCall #7302:

Because of the short time frame I gave myself, I wanted a pattern that was relatively simple.  Oh, and it had to be vintage.  And comfortable.  I also had to consider what would look best on my body type.  Now, I don’t always do that when it comes to clothes…perhaps you do the same thing?  I mean, sometimes I let fashion or just my love for a certain unforgiving silhouette dictate my choices and so I end up not wearing a once coveted garment.

But this was for my wedding – it had to fit and look right on me.  I wasn’t about to delude myself into thinking that I had a body that I didn’t and this wasn’t my opportunity to show off what a skilled sewist I was, ha ha!   I liked this pattern because it looked simple to make.  It had a cute, square neckline that wasn’t too low (I’m as little self-conscious of my “bony” chest).  It also fit at the waist and flared down towards the knee.  All these features, I think, are flattering on someone with a typical “pear-shaped” body: tiny on top, fuller at the bottom.

Anyhow, I made some modifications as you may be able to tell from the picture.  First, the neckline: mine is narrower than the pattern’s – I tried it as directed and it ended up looking too late ’80s Laura Ashley for my personal taste; plus the size of the collar overwhelmed me.  I also added a little bit of ease so it would ruffle, just the slightest bit.  By the way, the pieces are taken from the scalloped edge of the fabric.

The soft darts at the bust were too bulky (those darts are not sewn all the way to the ends/points but rather stop an 1″ or so from where normal darts stop, creating pleats) so I sewed them all the way down.  The skirt does not have a center seam nor is it cut on the bias like in the pattern.  Because of the lace, I figured a seam down the middle wouldn’t look very nice so I cut the front and back into 2 big pieces.  The closure is still on the side seam but instead of a zipper I used hooks and eyes (from my late grandma’s sewing kit) and decorated it with vintage foilback glass buttons.  The hem is edged with the lace fabric’s border.  I sewed on 3 rows of rick rack near the hem, one of which covers where I attached the border.

(Yes, my dress has rick rack – naturally!)

The ribbon at my waist is just some Petersham grosgrain in a buttery cream color.  I cannot even tell you how many ribbons I went through before I chose this one!  That might be surprising too since this is the most subdued color among the candidates.  My very clever landlord/costume designer suggested that I take photos of my choices; sometimes what looks good right in front of you doesn’t look so great in a photo.  It’s sort of like holding up a drawing you’ve been working on in the mirror and observing its reflection or looking at the same drawing upside down: it allows you to see it for what it really is, and your perception doesn’t interfere too much.  So, I tried dusty rose velvet ribbon, velvet in a mustard-gold, chocolate brown satin ribbon and many others.  I went through a few vintage flowers too.  While I loved the more intense colors and big flowers I didn’t want my dress to look like a “party dress” if that makes sense; perhaps if the gown was floor length it would have worked (because I’ve seen bold sashes and flowers on other wedding dresses and they looked beautiful), and if there were bolder colors in my husbands’ attire.   Soft and subtle turned out to suit us the best!

And luckily I found this white crinoline at a local thrift shop for cheap (because it was ripped at the waist, which I fixed).  The pink one I was going to use was a little too long so I’m glad I found this one just days before the ceremony. Oh, and the shoes are from Remix. (I’m hoping the fact that there are not white means I’m more likely to wear them again!)

And in this past post, I showed you the underdress, which I made from a very pale pink batiste (the color doesn’t come through in the photos except that it really softens or warms up the white in the lace).  The hydrangea bouquet came from my container garden.  AND, the rhinestone star bobby pin is vintage.

Ok, WOW, I feel like I’ve just talked your ear off!  I must admit I’ve been kind of a hermit lately.  Hiding out from the heat, trying to get things done.  Anyway, I hope this was fun and maybe even a little bit helpful!  *Wheeee!* And it’s Friday already.  That means sleeping in late, staying up late, maybe catching a movie and working on some patterns.

Thanks for letting me share this with you!  Have a good one!  xo

This is the last post for the Modern, Old-Fashioned dress.  At last!   It’s been a busy Sunday morning trying to finish up this lesson.  This post is very image-heavy so please don’t despair if this takes forever to load! (And sorry for the blurry first image, this is the only one.)

This post finishes up the dress, modified Built by Wendy pattern #3835, with the customized elasticized waist and ruffle hem.

Elasticized Waist

When I’m sewing for myself, I find it helpful to wear a full slip.  This way I can put on and take off the dress I’m making with ease and I can feel like I’m “decent” at my sewing machine, between fittings.  Of course, this is purely optional and if you enjoy sewing in your underwear, more power to you.

Ok, put on your dress and take the tie/sash that you plan to use as a belt.  I’m using 1″ Petersham ribbon; I’ll turn under the raw edges and hand sew them.  To finish your belt, you could also pink the edges or use Fray Check (But be careful because on some fabrics, Fray Check darkens the colors).

Tie the belt around your natural waist, snugly but not too tight.

Lift up your arms to pull up on the dress; the top part should blouse over the belt just a little (or more if you’d like).  This will ensure that you’ll have some room to move around once you give this dress a defined waist.

Pin around your waist, approximately in the middle of the ribbon.  Be sure to place a pin in each side seam, 1 in the center front and 1 in center back.

Now you are going to transfer some of the marks to the dress:  Take another pin and pin the dress, underneath the ribbon, exactly where the belt is pinned in place.  Then remove the pin from the belt.   Do this for the pins that are holding the belt to the front and maybe even the sides of the dress.  You can leave the belt pinned to the back unless you are quite acrobatic and can manage to transfer the marks there too.

Carefully remove your dress, being careful not to poke yourself in the eyes with the pins. Finish transferring the pins to the dress.  Turn dress inside out and lay flat.  At this point we’re going to draw/mark the waist line.  To make sure your line is even start measuring the sides, from the underarm (armscye) to the pin.   Measure the other side seam.  If they are close enough in length take the average and mark your dress with a fabric marking pen.  For example, if one side is 9″ and the other is 9 1/4,” mark each side seam at 9 1/8.”

You want your waistline to be relatively straight and not wonky.  If there is a pin way out of line, just ignore it and mark below or above it so you’ll get a nice even line across your dress. Mark the center front along the waistline.

Elastic: I used 1/2″ wide elastic the length of my waist minus 1.”  With the marking pen, mark 1/2″ from each end (mark on the softer side of the elastic if there is one).  Fold the elastic in half and mark the center.   Then fold the elastic to match the center mark with one of the end marks to find the quarter.  Repeat for other end.

Sew the elastic directly on top of your waistline with a wide zigzag stitch.  To start, place one marked end at the center back and pin.  Place the following quarter mark at the side seam and pin.

When you sew, your left hand should hold the already sewn part of the waist while your right hand holds the part yet to be sewn;  keep the fabric taut (flat) while feeding the fabric through the machine without pulling too much.  As you sew, pin the marks to the corresponding locations on the dress.  This is what it looks like from the outside when you are done:

Ruffle Hem

Put your dress back on.  Determine how long you want your dress to be.  Cut your dress 2 1/2″ shorter than the desired length.  (Why?  Because the ruffle is 3″ wide and we’ll attach it to the dress with a 1/2″ seam allowance.)  It might be helpful to have a friend mark the length.  Remove the dress.  Mark the center front.

The ruffle is in 2 strips, a front and back.  It’s 1 1/2 times longer than the width of the dress and 4 1/8″ tall (Unfinished).  So, if you measure the front bottom edge of the dress and it’s 22″ wide, then each strip should be (22 x 1 1/2) + 5/8 + 5/8 (for each seam allowance).  The total is 34 1/4″ for each strip.

Cut out your strips (parallel or crosswise to the grainline, it’s up to you).  Sew the strips together, making French seams, to form a loop.  Hem one side of the ruffle: turn under 1/4″ then again 3/8.”  Mark the center front and back on the raw edge.  Then gather the raw edge: sew 2 rows of stitches, at 1/4″ and 1/2″ from the edge, using the longest stitch on your machine.  (For some machines it’s a good idea to loosen the thread tension a little too.)

Pin the ruffle to the dress, right sides together, matching the side seams with the ruffle seams, the center marks to each other, and the raw edges.  Starting with the back, pull the the bobbin threads so that the fabric bunches up, or gathers, until the length of its raw edge matches the length of the dress.  Use your fingers to smooth and even out the gathers.  Pin in place.  Repeat with the front.  With the ruffle on top, (and making sure you’ve switched your stitch length back to normal) sew the ruffle to the dress.

Encase raw edges: trim the ruffle’s seam allowance to 1/4.”  Starting at a side seam, sew hem tape or seam binding to the seam allowances as close to the stitch line as possible.

Press seam allowances and seam binding towards top of dress (up).  Then sew the other edge of the hem tape onto the dress, encasing the raw edges of the dress hem and ruffle.  (If you are using seam binding that is not wide enough to encase the seam allowances, trim the seam allowances before you begin sewing).

Turn dress right side out and press.

That’s it!  Now you have a pretty and comfortable dress to wear during the remainder of the Summer season.  If you make one like this, please let me know, I’d love to see it!