I hope everyone had a nice weekend!  Because of our Labor Day holiday here in the U.S. I was able to finish up some sewing that has been sitting around since my last fall outfit post.

Once again, this outfit is 1930s-inspired; perhaps it’s vaguely Carnivale-esque?  The blouse is made up of a muted mint green shirting, off-white cotton-silk voile and embellished with a black silk satin ribbon bow (that’s pinned on and can be removed).  The skirt with large patch pockets is made from a tan/black/orange glen plaid.

The top pattern is McCall’s M5977.  Remember how I said I thought the armhole ruffles were weird?  Well, I decided to add them for this version but I redrafted the ruffles so they would be the least narrow under my arms (which is more flattering in my opinion).  I knew going in that this shirting fabric was not ideal for a pullover style top; it’s a little stiff and would be better suited to a button-down shirt.   I was stubborn and envisioned it being made into this very blouse anyway.  The shirt is meant to be tucked in so to reduce the bulk around my waist I added darts to both the front and back, keeping in mind that I still needed to be able to slip this on over my head!

The skirt fabric is a really soft cotton, not the wool you would expect.  (So soft in fact that Spoo Kee is sleeping on top of it as I write this.)  I kept the design really simple with patch pockets cut on the bias for a slight contrast.  The pockets are lined with self fabric that is cut with the grain (for stability).

For a bit of fanciness I lined this skirt with silk charmeuse.  I have to say, I love it!  By far so much nicer than polyester or acetate lining.  It feels like wearing a nightie underneath.  And yes, you may notice that I used a navy blue zipper instead of black.  That is simply because I had forgotten to get a black zipper and the fabric store was closed and I did not want to wait!  Ah, impatience.

Have you started your fall sewing yet?

All I want to do is sew clothes.  I have many ideas for other crafty projects, including shop stuff, but at the end of the day I just want to make a skirt or cut out a new blouse.  Life has been a bit crazy lately and sewing for the pure fun of it is my therapy, I suppose.

The clothes I’m working on are fall items I can wear now.  Because, you know, it’s not really going to get chilly here ’til late October or so.

Here is a blouse I made combining pattern pieces from McCall’s M5977 and New Look 6022.  I shortened the sleeves, drafted the v-neck and made the bows.  I don’t recommend attaching sleeves to bodice pieces meant for a sleeveless top (which is what I did) because the armholes aren’t quite right but I don’t think it’s noticeable and fits comfortably anyway.

The original design had 5 larger, pointier bows going done the front.  Even after testing the placement I didn’t get a feel for what it would truly look like until I had made and attached all the bows.  (You might be able to see bias tape stitched down the center front on the inside; this was placed there to support the bows.)  But I didn’t like it afterall.  Don’t know why, it just seemed too stiff or something.  So I re-cut 2 of the bows and attached them just near the v.

The skirt is my favorite of the 2.  The colors look blown out in the photo where I’m modeling it but the fabric really is so pretty and has a nice, slightly coarse texture.  (By the way, I probably wouldn’t wear those shoes with this skirt out and about because they are too orange but I’m currently without dark brown pumps.)

And yes, I used Simplicity pattern 8418 for this skirt.  Of course!

I’m so glad it’s Friday.  Do you have any fun plans for this weekend?

For the first time ever I’m planning out my sewing projects for the next season in advance so that they will complement each other.  It’s fun in a sewing/fashion-nerd sort of way.  I’ve reorganized my fabric stash into fall/winter and spring/summer instead of fabric-type to make it easier to pick out things that work together.  As usual I’ve gotten pretty ambitious with what I’d like to make up but at least I’m getting a head start.  (I’ve already finished one quick project this weekend and have started another.)

I’m showing you two palettes.  There are a lot of browns; no surprise there.  The first one consists of pale muted blues and greens and ivory.  Toile and houndstooth and dots and cotton velvet.

The second palette is warmer although there is some black in there too.  Rust and mauve and mustard yellow brighten up this set.  Faux fur and florals here.  All of it, naturally, very vintage-inspired.  Pretty, faded, old-fashioned prints and textures.  I’ve got some ’30s patterns picked out, some from the ’60s (for basic shapes) as well as modern ones too.

Have you started planning or even working on projects for next season yet?  Do you like to plan in advance and to what degree?

I know, the last time I was going on and on about dresses it was about little smocks and such.  But you’ll be proud of me because one of these dresses (the above one, actually) is one that I started a year ago, so at least I’m making myself finish what I start!

My intention was to wear this number last Thanksgiving in Texas during our grand “series of fortunate events.”  And while my husband’s family was planning most of the reception activity I was far too frazzled to focus on sewing this dress, especially when the sleeves stopped cooperating.  I finally decided, a year later, to finish it or give it up which was enough motivation to figure out the sleeve issue (ones I drafted myself) and apply the finishing touches.

This is Du Barry 2506B.  Hands down, one of my favorite patterns.  The sleeves in real life were too puffy for me so that’s why I had to change them.  The bow at the neckline was not quite as sweet as the one shown so I used this corally-colored satin ribbon instead.  At first I thought, perhaps, it looked too much like a Girl Scout or pilgrim dress but in these photos I quite like it.  The dark brown dotted swiss is really soft and so comfortable.  I omitted the belt because it looks fine with out it but I can always make one later on.

The next dress is quite different:

I had to blow out the photos because the fabric is so dark; it’s a midnight blue rose-pattern lace.  It’s the kind of lace that has a nice weight and drape and may be a cotton blend (similar to my wedding dress).   I ended up using a slightly darker Petersham (grosgrain) ribbon and kept the look monochromatic.

This style is a departure from my normal look, at least in terms of the sleeves.  I’ve seen them called “wingsleeves” before although I’m not sure if that’s the official term.  Very popular in the 1940s and ’50s they always struck me as being a little bit masculine or angular and therefore was never that appealing.  Over the last few years, however, quite a few vintage patterns with such sleeves have found their way into my stash and I might as well give them a try!

I reduced the width of the sleeves a little but besides that I didn’t have to do much to fit the dress.  The pattern size is too small but even vintage patterns add in a lot of ease and I only had to let out the front darts a little.  The tiny bows at the neckline are something a little extra I wanted to add.  The belt is cut from the pattern; I sewed ribbon along both edges giving it a more finished look while providing extra body.  It closes with a very strong snap and a couple of hooks and bars.  I couldn’t decide how I wanted to finish the belt.  I didn’t have enough fabric to make the belt long enough to accommodate a buckle but I couldn’t find any buttons currently in my stash to decorate it with.  I think it looks OK plain, yes?

Another thing about this dress (that is quite obvious): it’s see through!  I have some pale-colored slips but none would do.   I also have a black one which is suitable enough but I hope to find a navy blue one someday!

I have at least one more holiday dress to share (another one that I started quite a while ago) that I’m finally going to finish.  Stay tuned.

Happy Monday!