Top: F21
Skirt: Handmade by me!
Shoes: Remix
Bag: Vintage Koret

I’ve previously eluded to having done some personal sewing and here it is!   I had also started a bunch of small pattern projects (some of which I actually started months ago, even last year!) for the shop but I constantly have shop/work on my mind (maybe that’s why my joints are all out of whack with too much computer use?)  and some selfish sewing is always good for a break.

I love denim skirts because the right one is like a favored pair of jeans: goes with everything, comfortable and durable.  And since autumn in L.A. is more like late summer in a lot of places, a short denim skirt and sandals is not at all inappropriate.  (Although it’s quite grey and cool today – love it!)

Here’s the pattern, from 1969:

I made version 1 with a few modifications: I omitted the waistband and finished the opening with some single fold bias tape on the inside; moved the zipper from the side to the back (to avoid that sometimes awkward bump a zipper can create at the bottom); used contrasting striped denim for the pockets (like something a train engineer would wear!); and used 2 buttons per pocket instead of one.

This skirt was fairly easy and light weight denim is a dream to sew – so easy!  And what you see is the skirt after I was* washed it which really left me worried – sometimes flappy pockets get all crumpled up post-washing but these stayed nice and flat – *phew!*

I liked these pockets so much I put them on my latest (and ubiquitous) Built by Wendy #3835 dress:

This time I used a floaty, medium weight dark grey linen with white pinstripes from Joann’s, from 2 years ago.  Made it the same way I’ve done in the past.  I was on the fence about adding the elasticized waist band but after seeing the photos I like it with without* it (this version anyway).  I made the length short to avoid that house dress/muumuu look and pairing it with some leggings seemed natural (and logical in this changing weather).  You know, there was a time that I said I would never wear leggings again!  I mean, I wore them in the 5th grade (with a chain belt and over-sized, button-down pastel plaid shirt) and I really thought I was over them (plus, I’m not into the 80s trend).  BUT, here, I think they work.  Like the skirt, this dress has been washed; I didn’t press it because I know it’s unlikely that I’ll iron this dress every time I wear it but the wrinkliness doesn’t bother me – it is linen after all.

I also made the covered buttons from vintage calico:

I was thinking of putting some similar buttons in the shop, just for kicks.

I have the darndest times taking photos of myself – do you?  Eeek, I had to take a bunch to get any decent ones; I really don’t feel that I’m that photogenic and when you combine that with bedhead and it being first thing in the morning, well, a lot ends up on the cutting room floor.  There were actually a few photos I thought were hilarious (where I look drugged, annoyed, coquettish, etc.) that I wanted to share with you but I really don’t want such silly (and embarrassing) images on my blog.

The photos I take for my blog are all ones I take myself, without a tripod but still utilizing the timer.  I end up in all kinds of funny stances.  On trips and such my husband must help me out, suggesting that I bend my right leg, turn to the side, etc. because often times I look like a five year old – standing stalk still, knees locked with a goofy look on my face!  I think I’ve gotten better though but it’s still tricky when you can’t see yourself on the screen.  But blog photos of home sewing projects are a little different than typical vacation pics.  I mean, they’re action shots, right?

Happy Friday!

*Note to self: Make sure to be fully awake when writing posts!

The actual sewing portion of our sewing lessons is finally taking place – yippie!  I thought it was really important for me to work on this this past weekend, being that this is a summer dress and it’s almost August! (Although for those of us in California, summer is only beginning.)

Before we start, I want to let you know that I updated the last post (about cutting) with an alternative method to transferring pattern marks – this could be especially helpful for beginners. (Thanks, Andrea!)  And to recap, these sewing lessons focus on recreating my own Built by Wendy dress, pattern #3835.

Let’s sew!  To begin, follow the directions in the pattern for Dress A, Mini Dress B: Pockets A. As you can see in the above photo, I only added one pocket (on the left because I’m left-handed), added rick rack and cut the pocket piece on the bias (diagonal to the grainline).  This is not how I made the original Modern, Old-Fashioned Dress but since this is my 3rd time making this pattern I had to do something different!  Feel free to make these changes (or any, really) but if you’re a beginner it might be best to make the more simple version (pocket cut as indicated on the pattern); sewing rick rack on the bias can be a little frustrating which can lead to you not liking sewing!  (To clarify, fabric cut on the bias has stretch and sewing stretchy fabric can be tricky.)

Anyhow, I usually like to pin perpendicular to the stitch line as you can see here:

After you sew on the pockets, continue following the rest of the pattern, making the back darts.  Don’t forget to leave long (3″ or so) threads at the beginning and end of your darts so you can tie knots (as opposed to backstitching).

French Seams: For the back and side seams I made French seams, which is where the seam allowances are completely enclosed within themselves; this is great because it looks nice and prevents raveling.

This is how I like to do it:  Begin with the back center seam.  First, with WRONG sides (of the fabric) together, stitch seam 1/4″ from the edge.  Cut any loose threads that stick out.

Open up the back so the entire piece lays flat.  Press the seam flat, with the seam allowance to one side.  Then fold the back piece along the stitch line, RIGHT sides together, enclosing the seam; press.  Stitch the seam 3/8″ from the edge, enclosing the previously made 1/4″ seam allowance.  Open up the back piece again and press the seam nice and smooth.  (It doesn’t matter to which side the seam allowance falls.)

Repeat this process for the side seams; when you are done press seam allowances towards the back of the dress.

In our next lesson, we’ll begin with the sleeves – stay tuned!

During my blog break I finally managed to do some fun dress sewing. Remember that “Built by Wendy (#3835) pattern I was thinking of doing?

Instead of tackling one of my complicated vintage sewing patterns, I opted to do this relatively easy and modern one. I used some inexpensive, soft black and white seersucker from Joann’s.  It doesn’t have the crisp hand that I usually think of when I think of seersucker (like a southern gentleman’s summer jacket) but that was perfect for this comfortable frock.

All seams are French, felled or covered with seam binding because the weave of the fabric is kinda loose and pinking the seams wasn’t going to cut it (No pun intended – haha!).

Ok, so I started making the version in the middle. The yoke was looking quite funky, prim and unflattering (Which is sad because I thought the yoke was cool!) so I opted to use the blouse neckline and short sleeves too. I still added the patch pockets. I decreased the ease quite a bit to make it look more form-fitting which, in my opinion, is normally more flattering for us petite ladies. And even though I did that, I was delighted by the fact that I could completely omit the back zipper! (This is something that would only work if you were, um, small busted.)

I knew I was going to belt it so I sewed some soft elastic around the waistline, on the inside, with a zigzag stitch. I liked the mini-length but discovered that hemmed simply it looked as though I was donning an over-sized shirt. (Not my look, thanks.) But then it dawned on me to add the ruffle which was really the final touch and gave it some sweet, old-fashioned charm.

First, let me just say that I can’t believe I’m posting a photo of my backside on my blog.  (And that I also mentioned my bust — Where is this blog headed?) But I really wanted to show you the bow! The ribbon belt is the very same French grosgrain from the previous post. I washed it and it become super soft and flexible – oh, it’s lovely, I need more! To, you know, tie stuff with.

I’m revved up for more dress sewing. I started another dress, in the most summery cotton voile, and this time from a vintage pattern!