For the first time ever I’m planning out my sewing projects for the next season in advance so that they will complement each other.  It’s fun in a sewing/fashion-nerd sort of way.  I’ve reorganized my fabric stash into fall/winter and spring/summer instead of fabric-type to make it easier to pick out things that work together.  As usual I’ve gotten pretty ambitious with what I’d like to make up but at least I’m getting a head start.  (I’ve already finished one quick project this weekend and have started another.)

I’m showing you two palettes.  There are a lot of browns; no surprise there.  The first one consists of pale muted blues and greens and ivory.  Toile and houndstooth and dots and cotton velvet.

The second palette is warmer although there is some black in there too.  Rust and mauve and mustard yellow brighten up this set.  Faux fur and florals here.  All of it, naturally, very vintage-inspired.  Pretty, faded, old-fashioned prints and textures.  I’ve got some ’30s patterns picked out, some from the ’60s (for basic shapes) as well as modern ones too.

Have you started planning or even working on projects for next season yet?  Do you like to plan in advance and to what degree?

While trying to tidy up my fabric stash–something that, oddly, seems to make more of a mess!–I began setting aside fabric for my Sleepy Hollow quilt, something I quite gushed over last fall.   If this stack of fabric was all the fabric I owned, I’d say “Wow, I have a lot of fabric.”  I laugh and laugh!  I would be almost embarrassed to show you how much I actually have.  (I say “almost” because you all are probably the only ones who wouldn’t think I was nuts.)

Most of the top pieces have been collected over the years and/or are left over from past projects.  (Brownie points for anyone who can spy fabric in this pile that I’ve used for a dress or two!)  The 4th from the top is a pretty blue print that Nancy used in her oh so lovely Stacking the Odds quilt.  (Which Fabricworm speedily sent to my doorstep.)   Much of the lower part of the stack (see all the browns and blues?) came from Reproduction Fabrics (thanks again, Lisa, for the link!).

Here is a close-up of the stack:

And here are some favorites (pinks):

(blues; I do like all these stars as they seem very colonial to me)

(browns)

It’s entirely possibly some pieces won’t end up being used in the quilt, I’m still undecided.   I also feel like I need another stripe-y print or a check and I don’t seem to have much green, gray or lavender in here at all.  Like in the movie quilt I plan to use plain off-white muslin for the alternate triangles.  For the back?  I don’t know yet either.  If I can’t settle on anything I really like, I might just use plain muslin for the too.

Oh, and I found a free pattern I can use as a guide: Studio Perfect Triangle Quilt pattern!  It took me a while to figure out that this pattern is for their die cut products (because there wasn’t any template or triangle size in the pattern) but since I’m not in the market to buy such a fancy and ingenious device I’ll have to cut the triangles out the old-fashioned way.  (Cut triangles are 5″W x 6″H for this pattern, I’m not sure if I’ll go that big or smaller like in the inspiration quilt.)

Is anyone else making a quilt right now?  What do you think of these prints?  It seems like more of a wintry activity but, knowing me, I should get started sooner than later if I want to have it for cold weather!

I find the quilt-making process exhausting and yet every time I finish one (not that there have been that many times) I’m already thinking about my next.

Tim Burton’s Sleepy Hollow is a movie that has certainly grown on me over the years.  (I know I’ve must have mentioned this movie before!)  I love the production design, especially the costumes; Colleen Atwood can do no wrong.  But in the last few years (I watch it annually around this time) I’ve changed my focus to something else: the quilt.

This quilt is one of the prettiest I’ve seen.  The pictures are dark, I know, but I hope you can see what I see.  This simple triangle pattern might be my favorite quilt design.  I’ve seen this type of pattern more often in older quilts, like early and mid 19th C.  What I find most interesting are that the triangle’s bases in one row do not line up with those of the next.  (Unlike the example you can see here.) Instead the triangles themselves line up with the triangles in the second row over.  (Sorry for the possibly convoluted explanation.)   This pattern seems less common than the former, perhaps because it’s more difficult to keep all the rows lined up neatly without having the bases to match up.

Here you can see some detail.  This is also proof that I’m a certifiable sewing nerd: “Folks, forget Johnny – LOOK AT THE QUILT!”  Oh, I even love the shattered pieces and yellowing.  Look at the blue piece by Johnny’s right ear, isn’t it lovely?  (Gosh, I wonder how the art department found such a quilt.  It looks like a genuine antique, doesn’t it?)

Another slightly more awkward image of Johnny, I mean Ichabod, on the quilt.

I’d like to make a quilt like this.  I don’t know if I’d use feedsack or feedsack-like prints or something more Victorian.  I’d probably use colors that are lighter and maybe a little brighter although I really love the ones used in this piece.  Anyway, I don’t know when I’ll make this but I already have some fabric in my stash that would be suitable.  I hope to start this winter.

In the meantime, I’ve got some frocks to finish up and share with you!

…simple little frocks and smock dresses.  OBSESSED I tell you.  So much so that that is the very reason for this late night post.

Now that I’ve shared this obsession with you, two things could happen: 1) I’ll become bored and forget the whole thing (ha!) or 2) A tiny red and white biplane will fly over my house and drop the above dress (wrapped neatly in brown paper and tied with stripey string) on my front stoop. (Please let it be the latter…please!)

I mean, cotton/wool Liberty print?  Pretty gray color?  Cute half sleeves?  Short, gathered skirt?  Boatneck?  Aack!

Do I hear a propeller?  No?  Shoot.

I got some Spoonflower samples today!  Always exciting.  When I discovered they now offered cotton lawn I had to come up with some designs to test it out. (Lawn was the first thing I requested back when I first signed up with them.)  The samples you see above are all printed on lawn.  The colors came out mostly as expected which is nice.  Can you see the old-timey circus/Alice influence?

The fabric itself is a looser weave than I was expecting; maybe it will shrink up a bit in the wash.  My idea was to construct a wee 1930s dress for myself from Spoonflower lawn.  And, I suppose, some dolly dresses too.  What do you think?

I printed the strongman design on canvas.  I really like the canvas. (I wasn’t expecting to as I haven’t had much use for it; perhaps that will change!)  There were other strongman versions on quilt-weight fabric but I don’t like them as much.  Somehow the details didn’t show up as well. (Plus the scale was smaller so the little guys just seem sort of lost.)  I think this design would need something a little more if it were ever to be printed, some kind of design element in the background.

The diamond/star design is printed on their standard quilt-weight fabric in a slightly different colorway from the same design above it.  I like the softer, more greenish version in the lawn. (Although the bright red, blue and white is appropriate for our holiday weekend!)

Have you printed up anything at Spoonflower lately?

Anyhow, I wish all my fellow U.S. residents, citizens and ex-pats a Happy July 4th weekend!   Actually, a lovely weekend to everyone!

Blue fabric from my stash.  Perfect for a bevy of blue dresses (some of my favorite things!).  The top and second from the bottom are vintage.  Don’t you love that lace in the middle?  I can see it made up into a 30′s style dress or blouse.

For Poppytalk’s Spring Color Week.

Top: F21
Skirt: Handmade by me!
Shoes: Remix
Bag: Vintage Koret

I’ve previously eluded to having done some personal sewing and here it is!   I had also started a bunch of small pattern projects (some of which I actually started months ago, even last year!) for the shop but I constantly have shop/work on my mind (maybe that’s why my joints are all out of whack with too much computer use?)  and some selfish sewing is always good for a break.

I love denim skirts because the right one is like a favored pair of jeans: goes with everything, comfortable and durable.  And since autumn in L.A. is more like late summer in a lot of places, a short denim skirt and sandals is not at all inappropriate.  (Although it’s quite grey and cool today – love it!)

Here’s the pattern, from 1969:

I made version 1 with a few modifications: I omitted the waistband and finished the opening with some single fold bias tape on the inside; moved the zipper from the side to the back (to avoid that sometimes awkward bump a zipper can create at the bottom); used contrasting striped denim for the pockets (like something a train engineer would wear!); and used 2 buttons per pocket instead of one.

This skirt was fairly easy and light weight denim is a dream to sew – so easy!  And what you see is the skirt after I was* washed it which really left me worried – sometimes flappy pockets get all crumpled up post-washing but these stayed nice and flat – *phew!*

I liked these pockets so much I put them on my latest (and ubiquitous) Built by Wendy #3835 dress:

This time I used a floaty, medium weight dark grey linen with white pinstripes from Joann’s, from 2 years ago.  Made it the same way I’ve done in the past.  I was on the fence about adding the elasticized waist band but after seeing the photos I like it with without* it (this version anyway).  I made the length short to avoid that house dress/muumuu look and pairing it with some leggings seemed natural (and logical in this changing weather).  You know, there was a time that I said I would never wear leggings again!  I mean, I wore them in the 5th grade (with a chain belt and over-sized, button-down pastel plaid shirt) and I really thought I was over them (plus, I’m not into the 80s trend).  BUT, here, I think they work.  Like the skirt, this dress has been washed; I didn’t press it because I know it’s unlikely that I’ll iron this dress every time I wear it but the wrinkliness doesn’t bother me – it is linen after all.

I also made the covered buttons from vintage calico:

I was thinking of putting some similar buttons in the shop, just for kicks.

I have the darndest times taking photos of myself – do you?  Eeek, I had to take a bunch to get any decent ones; I really don’t feel that I’m that photogenic and when you combine that with bedhead and it being first thing in the morning, well, a lot ends up on the cutting room floor.  There were actually a few photos I thought were hilarious (where I look drugged, annoyed, coquettish, etc.) that I wanted to share with you but I really don’t want such silly (and embarrassing) images on my blog.

The photos I take for my blog are all ones I take myself, without a tripod but still utilizing the timer.  I end up in all kinds of funny stances.  On trips and such my husband must help me out, suggesting that I bend my right leg, turn to the side, etc. because often times I look like a five year old – standing stalk still, knees locked with a goofy look on my face!  I think I’ve gotten better though but it’s still tricky when you can’t see yourself on the screen.  But blog photos of home sewing projects are a little different than typical vacation pics.  I mean, they’re action shots, right?

Happy Friday!

*Note to self: Make sure to be fully awake when writing posts!

So, you all aren’t tired of hearing about my wedding, right?!  I guess since we still have 2 (or more?) little parties to go, it’s still on my mind.  Plus, I realized that I really didn’t talk about the specifics of my dress too much and thought the sewing and fashion folks, in particular, would be interested in learning more.

It was in this post where I talked about the pattern and fabric I thought I would use which, it turns out, I did.   This pretty, soft white lace with a border is something I’ve had for years.  (I didn’t know I’d end up using it for my wedding dress, really!)  Here’s the pattern again, from 1948, McCall #7302:

Because of the short time frame I gave myself, I wanted a pattern that was relatively simple.  Oh, and it had to be vintage.  And comfortable.  I also had to consider what would look best on my body type.  Now, I don’t always do that when it comes to clothes…perhaps you do the same thing?  I mean, sometimes I let fashion or just my love for a certain unforgiving silhouette dictate my choices and so I end up not wearing a once coveted garment.

But this was for my wedding – it had to fit and look right on me.  I wasn’t about to delude myself into thinking that I had a body that I didn’t and this wasn’t my opportunity to show off what a skilled sewist I was, ha ha!   I liked this pattern because it looked simple to make.  It had a cute, square neckline that wasn’t too low (I’m as little self-conscious of my “bony” chest).  It also fit at the waist and flared down towards the knee.  All these features, I think, are flattering on someone with a typical “pear-shaped” body: tiny on top, fuller at the bottom.

Anyhow, I made some modifications as you may be able to tell from the picture.  First, the neckline: mine is narrower than the pattern’s – I tried it as directed and it ended up looking too late ’80s Laura Ashley for my personal taste; plus the size of the collar overwhelmed me.  I also added a little bit of ease so it would ruffle, just the slightest bit.  By the way, the pieces are taken from the scalloped edge of the fabric.

The soft darts at the bust were too bulky (those darts are not sewn all the way to the ends/points but rather stop an 1″ or so from where normal darts stop, creating pleats) so I sewed them all the way down.  The skirt does not have a center seam nor is it cut on the bias like in the pattern.  Because of the lace, I figured a seam down the middle wouldn’t look very nice so I cut the front and back into 2 big pieces.  The closure is still on the side seam but instead of a zipper I used hooks and eyes (from my late grandma’s sewing kit) and decorated it with vintage foilback glass buttons.  The hem is edged with the lace fabric’s border.  I sewed on 3 rows of rick rack near the hem, one of which covers where I attached the border.

(Yes, my dress has rick rack – naturally!)

The ribbon at my waist is just some Petersham grosgrain in a buttery cream color.  I cannot even tell you how many ribbons I went through before I chose this one!  That might be surprising too since this is the most subdued color among the candidates.  My very clever landlord/costume designer suggested that I take photos of my choices; sometimes what looks good right in front of you doesn’t look so great in a photo.  It’s sort of like holding up a drawing you’ve been working on in the mirror and observing its reflection or looking at the same drawing upside down: it allows you to see it for what it really is, and your perception doesn’t interfere too much.  So, I tried dusty rose velvet ribbon, velvet in a mustard-gold, chocolate brown satin ribbon and many others.  I went through a few vintage flowers too.  While I loved the more intense colors and big flowers I didn’t want my dress to look like a “party dress” if that makes sense; perhaps if the gown was floor length it would have worked (because I’ve seen bold sashes and flowers on other wedding dresses and they looked beautiful), and if there were bolder colors in my husbands’ attire.   Soft and subtle turned out to suit us the best!

And luckily I found this white crinoline at a local thrift shop for cheap (because it was ripped at the waist, which I fixed).  The pink one I was going to use was a little too long so I’m glad I found this one just days before the ceremony. Oh, and the shoes are from Remix. (I’m hoping the fact that there are not white means I’m more likely to wear them again!)

And in this past post, I showed you the underdress, which I made from a very pale pink batiste (the color doesn’t come through in the photos except that it really softens or warms up the white in the lace).  The hydrangea bouquet came from my container garden.  AND, the rhinestone star bobby pin is vintage.

Ok, WOW, I feel like I’ve just talked your ear off!  I must admit I’ve been kind of a hermit lately.  Hiding out from the heat, trying to get things done.  Anyway, I hope this was fun and maybe even a little bit helpful!  *Wheeee!* And it’s Friday already.  That means sleeping in late, staying up late, maybe catching a movie and working on some patterns.

Thanks for letting me share this with you!  Have a good one!  xo

This is the last post for the Modern, Old-Fashioned dress.  At last!   It’s been a busy Sunday morning trying to finish up this lesson.  This post is very image-heavy so please don’t despair if this takes forever to load! (And sorry for the blurry first image, this is the only one.)

This post finishes up the dress, modified Built by Wendy pattern #3835, with the customized elasticized waist and ruffle hem.

Elasticized Waist

When I’m sewing for myself, I find it helpful to wear a full slip.  This way I can put on and take off the dress I’m making with ease and I can feel like I’m “decent” at my sewing machine, between fittings.  Of course, this is purely optional and if you enjoy sewing in your underwear, more power to you.

Ok, put on your dress and take the tie/sash that you plan to use as a belt.  I’m using 1″ Petersham ribbon; I’ll turn under the raw edges and hand sew them.  To finish your belt, you could also pink the edges or use Fray Check (But be careful because on some fabrics, Fray Check darkens the colors).

Tie the belt around your natural waist, snugly but not too tight.

Lift up your arms to pull up on the dress; the top part should blouse over the belt just a little (or more if you’d like).  This will ensure that you’ll have some room to move around once you give this dress a defined waist.

Pin around your waist, approximately in the middle of the ribbon.  Be sure to place a pin in each side seam, 1 in the center front and 1 in center back.

Now you are going to transfer some of the marks to the dress:  Take another pin and pin the dress, underneath the ribbon, exactly where the belt is pinned in place.  Then remove the pin from the belt.   Do this for the pins that are holding the belt to the front and maybe even the sides of the dress.  You can leave the belt pinned to the back unless you are quite acrobatic and can manage to transfer the marks there too.

Carefully remove your dress, being careful not to poke yourself in the eyes with the pins. Finish transferring the pins to the dress.  Turn dress inside out and lay flat.  At this point we’re going to draw/mark the waist line.  To make sure your line is even start measuring the sides, from the underarm (armscye) to the pin.   Measure the other side seam.  If they are close enough in length take the average and mark your dress with a fabric marking pen.  For example, if one side is 9″ and the other is 9 1/4,” mark each side seam at 9 1/8.”

You want your waistline to be relatively straight and not wonky.  If there is a pin way out of line, just ignore it and mark below or above it so you’ll get a nice even line across your dress. Mark the center front along the waistline.

Elastic: I used 1/2″ wide elastic the length of my waist minus 1.”  With the marking pen, mark 1/2″ from each end (mark on the softer side of the elastic if there is one).  Fold the elastic in half and mark the center.   Then fold the elastic to match the center mark with one of the end marks to find the quarter.  Repeat for other end.

Sew the elastic directly on top of your waistline with a wide zigzag stitch.  To start, place one marked end at the center back and pin.  Place the following quarter mark at the side seam and pin.

When you sew, your left hand should hold the already sewn part of the waist while your right hand holds the part yet to be sewn;  keep the fabric taut (flat) while feeding the fabric through the machine without pulling too much.  As you sew, pin the marks to the corresponding locations on the dress.  This is what it looks like from the outside when you are done:

Ruffle Hem

Put your dress back on.  Determine how long you want your dress to be.  Cut your dress 2 1/2″ shorter than the desired length.  (Why?  Because the ruffle is 3″ wide and we’ll attach it to the dress with a 1/2″ seam allowance.)  It might be helpful to have a friend mark the length.  Remove the dress.  Mark the center front.

The ruffle is in 2 strips, a front and back.  It’s 1 1/2 times longer than the width of the dress and 4 1/8″ tall (Unfinished).  So, if you measure the front bottom edge of the dress and it’s 22″ wide, then each strip should be (22 x 1 1/2) + 5/8 + 5/8 (for each seam allowance).  The total is 34 1/4″ for each strip.

Cut out your strips (parallel or crosswise to the grainline, it’s up to you).  Sew the strips together, making French seams, to form a loop.  Hem one side of the ruffle: turn under 1/4″ then again 3/8.”  Mark the center front and back on the raw edge.  Then gather the raw edge: sew 2 rows of stitches, at 1/4″ and 1/2″ from the edge, using the longest stitch on your machine.  (For some machines it’s a good idea to loosen the thread tension a little too.)

Pin the ruffle to the dress, right sides together, matching the side seams with the ruffle seams, the center marks to each other, and the raw edges.  Starting with the back, pull the the bobbin threads so that the fabric bunches up, or gathers, until the length of its raw edge matches the length of the dress.  Use your fingers to smooth and even out the gathers.  Pin in place.  Repeat with the front.  With the ruffle on top, (and making sure you’ve switched your stitch length back to normal) sew the ruffle to the dress.

Encase raw edges: trim the ruffle’s seam allowance to 1/4.”  Starting at a side seam, sew hem tape or seam binding to the seam allowances as close to the stitch line as possible.

Press seam allowances and seam binding towards top of dress (up).  Then sew the other edge of the hem tape onto the dress, encasing the raw edges of the dress hem and ruffle.  (If you are using seam binding that is not wide enough to encase the seam allowances, trim the seam allowances before you begin sewing).

Turn dress right side out and press.

That’s it!  Now you have a pretty and comfortable dress to wear during the remainder of the Summer season.  If you make one like this, please let me know, I’d love to see it!

I’ve been a bit frazzled lately.  Last week I started to feel a summer cold coming on (the worst!) I realized that I needed to rest.   You know, I’ve been trying to do wedding stuff + shop stuff (although that hasn’t really been happening since the wedding stuff – will have to be corrected soon) and then just all the other stuff that goes on in life.   I was constantly waivering between “Wweeeeeeeeeeeee!” and “Aaaackk!”  So now, to remedy that, I’m taking some Pantothenic acid (Vitamin B5, good for the nerves), cut out the caffeine (green tea, not the chocolate – can’t stop that!) and forcing myself to go to bed at a “normal” (normal for me) time which is difficult since I’m like a child in that I really don’t want to go to sleep.  Ever.

And this morning?  Mostly I’m “weeeee!,” with a tiny bit “aack.”  Better.  I’m having a moment of calm, dears, so let’s take advantage of it.  Wedding Update!

You already knew we were on the fast track and had tentatively planned a wedding for autumn.  While trying to figure out the logistics (the most fun or the worst part of any planning depending on your personality – guess where I fall?) I started to feel wigged out by the stress of it;  I wanted to enjoy my short engagement and all the planning wasn’t helping; so we decided to elope.  Just us.  It was great.  I was still going to make my dress, still going to have wonderful pictures of the event.

For a long time I would say, “When I get married, I want to elope.”  My parents knew this.  And when I told them about our engagement they told me, “You’re adults, do what you want.  Go elope, it’s fine with us.”  “Really??”  “Yes.”  (I think my parents were just happy I was actually getting married and not going to turn into an old spinster [Clarification: I personally do not have a problem with old spinsters].)

So, that’s what I told them – “Scrap the wedding plans, we are just going to elope.”  Gave them the date, in August.  (Why wait when you’re just going to run off?)  Well, guess what?  Mom and Dad were not happy about it.  At all.  (Make a mental note here: When eloping, do not tell parents.)

ANYHOW, we are still going to to have a summer wedding only now the parents are coming to the ceremony!   At first I resisted the idea.  What happened to my utterly romantic vision of two people running away together?  What about my reluctance to become weepy and sentimental in front of an audience? But my parents were truly disappointed and I couldn’t very well run away knowing they felt excluded from our special day.   So, I’m over that and am now glad our (out of town) parents are involved.   (Not sure if anyone else would be coming.  We need to keep it small.)  And we still plan to celebrate party-style with our friends and family in the fall so that will be fun!  How many people get a summer wedding and an autumn reception?

So, again, I’ve been frazzled lately.  But at this point most things are taken care of and I’m feeling really excited about things.  On my to do list: I still need to get my wedding band sized, alter my fiance’s vest.  Make the boutonnieres. (Yes, I’m making those now, for all three men.)   Maybe a bouquet for me, I’ve got some ideas for that.  And my dress.  The dress!

Yes, I know, this dress just screams “BRIDE.”  Ok not really, but it’s working out.  I thought at first I would go more 1930s tea-length.  Then I thought about a full-length, early 1950s style.  But what I really wanted was something  pretty but relatively easy.  This pattern, from 1948, did not jump out at me at first but I think the silhouette looks pretty good on my figure and it’s not too complicated.  Plus I’m customizing it so it won’t end up looking like an everyday sundress.

Fabric: I’ve had this soft white lace for years now – I originally bought it to make my Maid of Honor dress for my friend Natalie’s big, formal wedding.  When it was decided that we were going to buy dresses, I knew that I’d find a use for this lace someday. This lace has turned out to be quite perfect for the dress.  It’s nice but not overly fancy.  Light, not too heavy.  The lace is for the lace overdress; the lining will be a separate dress. This way I can change the lining dress underneath (I hope to be able to wear this dress again and not put it away in storage.)

My wedding colors went from muted early fall tones (iris, hydrangea, ivory and mustard) to more light and happy summer hues (pinks and yellows and white – maybe blue too).  I may use this petal pink batiste and nude gauze (above) for the lining.  I can”t guarantee I’ll use either of these since I’ve changed my mind 3 times already!  But it would be pretty, yes?  And as far as decorating the dress, I’m still trying to figure out that part – vintage flowers, a velvet ribbon belt, vintage foil-back buttons….just some more ideas I’m playing around with.

I hope that was a satisfying update!  I don’t want to give away too many details – I think it will be more fun this way when I show you the wedding pictures eventually.  (Which I will, of course!)

Thank you for letting me share with you all and have a lovely weekend!