This is the last post for the Modern, Old-Fashioned dress.  At last!   It’s been a busy Sunday morning trying to finish up this lesson.  This post is very image-heavy so please don’t despair if this takes forever to load! (And sorry for the blurry first image, this is the only one.)

This post finishes up the dress, modified Built by Wendy pattern #3835, with the customized elasticized waist and ruffle hem.

Elasticized Waist

When I’m sewing for myself, I find it helpful to wear a full slip.  This way I can put on and take off the dress I’m making with ease and I can feel like I’m “decent” at my sewing machine, between fittings.  Of course, this is purely optional and if you enjoy sewing in your underwear, more power to you.

Ok, put on your dress and take the tie/sash that you plan to use as a belt.  I’m using 1″ Petersham ribbon; I’ll turn under the raw edges and hand sew them.  To finish your belt, you could also pink the edges or use Fray Check (But be careful because on some fabrics, Fray Check darkens the colors).

Tie the belt around your natural waist, snugly but not too tight.

Lift up your arms to pull up on the dress; the top part should blouse over the belt just a little (or more if you’d like).  This will ensure that you’ll have some room to move around once you give this dress a defined waist.

Pin around your waist, approximately in the middle of the ribbon.  Be sure to place a pin in each side seam, 1 in the center front and 1 in center back.

Now you are going to transfer some of the marks to the dress:  Take another pin and pin the dress, underneath the ribbon, exactly where the belt is pinned in place.  Then remove the pin from the belt.   Do this for the pins that are holding the belt to the front and maybe even the sides of the dress.  You can leave the belt pinned to the back unless you are quite acrobatic and can manage to transfer the marks there too.

Carefully remove your dress, being careful not to poke yourself in the eyes with the pins. Finish transferring the pins to the dress.  Turn dress inside out and lay flat.  At this point we’re going to draw/mark the waist line.  To make sure your line is even start measuring the sides, from the underarm (armscye) to the pin.   Measure the other side seam.  If they are close enough in length take the average and mark your dress with a fabric marking pen.  For example, if one side is 9″ and the other is 9 1/4,” mark each side seam at 9 1/8.”

You want your waistline to be relatively straight and not wonky.  If there is a pin way out of line, just ignore it and mark below or above it so you’ll get a nice even line across your dress. Mark the center front along the waistline.

Elastic: I used 1/2″ wide elastic the length of my waist minus 1.”  With the marking pen, mark 1/2″ from each end (mark on the softer side of the elastic if there is one).  Fold the elastic in half and mark the center.   Then fold the elastic to match the center mark with one of the end marks to find the quarter.  Repeat for other end.

Sew the elastic directly on top of your waistline with a wide zigzag stitch.  To start, place one marked end at the center back and pin.  Place the following quarter mark at the side seam and pin.

When you sew, your left hand should hold the already sewn part of the waist while your right hand holds the part yet to be sewn;  keep the fabric taut (flat) while feeding the fabric through the machine without pulling too much.  As you sew, pin the marks to the corresponding locations on the dress.  This is what it looks like from the outside when you are done:

Ruffle Hem

Put your dress back on.  Determine how long you want your dress to be.  Cut your dress 2 1/2″ shorter than the desired length.  (Why?  Because the ruffle is 3″ wide and we’ll attach it to the dress with a 1/2″ seam allowance.)  It might be helpful to have a friend mark the length.  Remove the dress.  Mark the center front.

The ruffle is in 2 strips, a front and back.  It’s 1 1/2 times longer than the width of the dress and 4 1/8″ tall (Unfinished).  So, if you measure the front bottom edge of the dress and it’s 22″ wide, then each strip should be (22 x 1 1/2) + 5/8 + 5/8 (for each seam allowance).  The total is 34 1/4″ for each strip.

Cut out your strips (parallel or crosswise to the grainline, it’s up to you).  Sew the strips together, making French seams, to form a loop.  Hem one side of the ruffle: turn under 1/4″ then again 3/8.”  Mark the center front and back on the raw edge.  Then gather the raw edge: sew 2 rows of stitches, at 1/4″ and 1/2″ from the edge, using the longest stitch on your machine.  (For some machines it’s a good idea to loosen the thread tension a little too.)

Pin the ruffle to the dress, right sides together, matching the side seams with the ruffle seams, the center marks to each other, and the raw edges.  Starting with the back, pull the the bobbin threads so that the fabric bunches up, or gathers, until the length of its raw edge matches the length of the dress.  Use your fingers to smooth and even out the gathers.  Pin in place.  Repeat with the front.  With the ruffle on top, (and making sure you’ve switched your stitch length back to normal) sew the ruffle to the dress.

Encase raw edges: trim the ruffle’s seam allowance to 1/4.”  Starting at a side seam, sew hem tape or seam binding to the seam allowances as close to the stitch line as possible.

Press seam allowances and seam binding towards top of dress (up).  Then sew the other edge of the hem tape onto the dress, encasing the raw edges of the dress hem and ruffle.  (If you are using seam binding that is not wide enough to encase the seam allowances, trim the seam allowances before you begin sewing).

Turn dress right side out and press.

That’s it!  Now you have a pretty and comfortable dress to wear during the remainder of the Summer season.  If you make one like this, please let me know, I’d love to see it!

I’ve been a bit frazzled lately.  Last week I started to feel a summer cold coming on (the worst!) I realized that I needed to rest.   You know, I’ve been trying to do wedding stuff + shop stuff (although that hasn’t really been happening since the wedding stuff – will have to be corrected soon) and then just all the other stuff that goes on in life.   I was constantly waivering between “Wweeeeeeeeeeeee!” and “Aaaackk!”  So now, to remedy that, I’m taking some Pantothenic acid (Vitamin B5, good for the nerves), cut out the caffeine (green tea, not the chocolate – can’t stop that!) and forcing myself to go to bed at a “normal” (normal for me) time which is difficult since I’m like a child in that I really don’t want to go to sleep.  Ever.

And this morning?  Mostly I’m “weeeee!,” with a tiny bit “aack.”  Better.  I’m having a moment of calm, dears, so let’s take advantage of it.  Wedding Update!

You already knew we were on the fast track and had tentatively planned a wedding for autumn.  While trying to figure out the logistics (the most fun or the worst part of any planning depending on your personality – guess where I fall?) I started to feel wigged out by the stress of it;  I wanted to enjoy my short engagement and all the planning wasn’t helping; so we decided to elope.  Just us.  It was great.  I was still going to make my dress, still going to have wonderful pictures of the event.

For a long time I would say, “When I get married, I want to elope.”  My parents knew this.  And when I told them about our engagement they told me, “You’re adults, do what you want.  Go elope, it’s fine with us.”  “Really??”  “Yes.”  (I think my parents were just happy I was actually getting married and not going to turn into an old spinster [Clarification: I personally do not have a problem with old spinsters].)

So, that’s what I told them – “Scrap the wedding plans, we are just going to elope.”  Gave them the date, in August.  (Why wait when you’re just going to run off?)  Well, guess what?  Mom and Dad were not happy about it.  At all.  (Make a mental note here: When eloping, do not tell parents.)

ANYHOW, we are still going to to have a summer wedding only now the parents are coming to the ceremony!   At first I resisted the idea.  What happened to my utterly romantic vision of two people running away together?  What about my reluctance to become weepy and sentimental in front of an audience? But my parents were truly disappointed and I couldn’t very well run away knowing they felt excluded from our special day.   So, I’m over that and am now glad our (out of town) parents are involved.   (Not sure if anyone else would be coming.  We need to keep it small.)  And we still plan to celebrate party-style with our friends and family in the fall so that will be fun!  How many people get a summer wedding and an autumn reception?

So, again, I’ve been frazzled lately.  But at this point most things are taken care of and I’m feeling really excited about things.  On my to do list: I still need to get my wedding band sized, alter my fiance’s vest.  Make the boutonnieres. (Yes, I’m making those now, for all three men.)   Maybe a bouquet for me, I’ve got some ideas for that.  And my dress.  The dress!

Yes, I know, this dress just screams “BRIDE.”  Ok not really, but it’s working out.  I thought at first I would go more 1930s tea-length.  Then I thought about a full-length, early 1950s style.  But what I really wanted was something  pretty but relatively easy.  This pattern, from 1948, did not jump out at me at first but I think the silhouette looks pretty good on my figure and it’s not too complicated.  Plus I’m customizing it so it won’t end up looking like an everyday sundress.

Fabric: I’ve had this soft white lace for years now – I originally bought it to make my Maid of Honor dress for my friend Natalie’s big, formal wedding.  When it was decided that we were going to buy dresses, I knew that I’d find a use for this lace someday. This lace has turned out to be quite perfect for the dress.  It’s nice but not overly fancy.  Light, not too heavy.  The lace is for the lace overdress; the lining will be a separate dress. This way I can change the lining dress underneath (I hope to be able to wear this dress again and not put it away in storage.)

My wedding colors went from muted early fall tones (iris, hydrangea, ivory and mustard) to more light and happy summer hues (pinks and yellows and white – maybe blue too).  I may use this petal pink batiste and nude gauze (above) for the lining.  I can”t guarantee I’ll use either of these since I’ve changed my mind 3 times already!  But it would be pretty, yes?  And as far as decorating the dress, I’m still trying to figure out that part – vintage flowers, a velvet ribbon belt, vintage foil-back buttons….just some more ideas I’m playing around with.

I hope that was a satisfying update!  I don’t want to give away too many details – I think it will be more fun this way when I show you the wedding pictures eventually.  (Which I will, of course!)

Thank you for letting me share with you all and have a lovely weekend!

Ok, so now that you’ve got your tools let’s talk about figuring out the back of patterns and the fabric you’ll need.  To recap, if you’re going to follow along in these lessons, you’ll need Simplicity’s Built By Wendy / Built by You #3835.  Otherwise I think this post will still be helpful for those that are just learning to sew from patterns.  Again, chime in if you disagree or have your own methods to getting yourself ready for a sewing project!

First, you’ll need to get the right size.  Any pattern I’ve seen displays the size at the top somewhere as shown here:

This is size D5 which is a range of sizes 4-12.  Generally speaking, modern patterns tend to contain multiple sizes unlike vintage patterns which usually only have one.  The nice thing about a range is that it is easier to customize the pattern to your measurements.  For example, you can cut the bodice a size 8 and the hips a size 12.  It’s important to note that pattern sizes, modern or vintage, often don’t correspond to modern ready-to-wear sizes.  If you wear a size 12 in modern clothing, it’s very likely you won’t wear a size 12 in a vintage or modern pattern.  But don’t worry, the important thing is to know your measurements!  Check out this post at Sew Mama Sew! to learn how to measure yourself when you get the chance.

Here’s an overview of the back of the pattern (layouts vary depending on manufacturer):

There are line diagrams of the different views, or versions, that the pattern offers on the left, noted as A, B and C;  the letter next to each diagram corresponds to the illustration or photo of that version on the pattern’s front.  You also have (starting from the top):

• The names of the different versions (I.e. “Mini-dress”)
• The types of fabrics that are suggested (I think it’s important to adhere to the pattern’s suggestions, especially when you are a beginner)
• Notions you’ll need
• Body measurements and their corresponding sizes
• How much fabric you’ll need for each size, in each view
• Garment measurements (at the bottom)

Garment measurements tell you how big the actual garment is which is usually bigger (unless we’re talking knit fabrics) than your body measurements.   How much bigger they are is the garment’s ease.  To be really general about it, if a garment’s measurements are a lot bigger than the corresponding body measurements, then you could say that it has a lot of ease (like in a Muumuu!).  If there is little difference then you could say there is little ease and the garment is meant to be fitted.  Zero or negative ease is something you would likely find in knitted garments that have lots of stretch.

So when you pick out the pattern you like, check the back and find your measurements so you can pick out the size:

Few women fall into one size exactly.   Each pattern manufacturer is different and after you’ve gained more experience you may find that, for example, company X tends to run a bit big on you and you’d need to go down a size.   Also, it may depend on the garment you are making.  For example, if you are making a dress with a full skirt and your hip measurement is significantly different from the hip measurement in the stated size, you may be home free since often times a good fit would not depend on the skirt part.  On the other hand, your hip measurement is key when making a pair of trousers.

If your pattern contains multiple sizes, you could (like I said before) cut out the most appropriate size for that body part.  (We’ll talk more about these things and garment ease in the post about cutting out your pattern pieces.)  Pattern #3835, which features an loose-fitting a-line dress, does not rely on the waist and hip measurements too much.   For this particular pattern, I think it’s a good idea to pick the size based on your bust measurement (And round up if needed).

♥

The modern, old-fashioned dress we’re going to make is essentially View C, which is the top, but longer, with darts and pockets like View A;  It also has a ruffled hem and elastic waistband with ribbon tie.

You’ll need to round up the following:

• The amount of fabric stated in your size for View A + an extra 1/4 yd (You may have extra fabric left over, especially if you range in the smaller sizes, but it’s better to be safe than sorry!)*
• Coordinating thread
• One package 1/4″ wide elastic
• One package 1/2″ wide elastic
• One package hem tape or seam binding
• 1″ or 1 1/2″ wide ribbon: To get the length take your natural waist measurement and add 28″ (Or more if you want a bigger bow.)**
• Optional: One 20″ zipper, hook and eye***

*The fabric I used is seersucker from Joann’s; it’s a looser weave than traditional seersucker and therefore is softer and drapes better – perfect for summer.  I recommend using a lightweight woven cotton or linen fabric for this project which includes calico and quilt-weight fabric.  Keep in mind that if the fabric you choose is stiff (like some quilt fabrics can be) then your dress will be stiff too; sometimes washing the fabrics helps with that but not always.  (By the way, I suggest that you wash your fabric before the next post!)  For these sewing lessons, I picked out some vintage mint green and white gingham (see first photo).

**I used petersham or French grosgrain ribbon for my dress.  Petersham looks similar to regular grosgrain ribbon except the edges are bumpy – this has to do with how the ribbon is woven and this kind of ribbon is more flexible than regular grosgrain (which is why it is often used for curves like in a waistband or around a hat).  I also washed the ribbon and it turned out really soft.  You don’t have to get petersham ribbon if you cannot find it – any ribbon you like should do.

***I omitted the zipper in this dress (Simply put, I do not enjoy installing them) and won’t be going over how to put one in for this project.  Omitting the zipper should be fine for most people but if you consider yourself a busty gal, you might need it.  (If, in general, you avoid non-knit dresses and tops that slip over your head because they don’t work for you, consider putting a zipper in.  There are many books and tutorials online for this; Sorry, the one I was going to suggest is experiencing technical difficulties.  If anyone can suggest a good tutorial for installing zippers PLEASE leave a comment!  Thank you!)

OR, if you don’t like the ruffle or cinched waist you could skip my additions and make a more simple version like I did here:

(Cute Japanese print with red and white striped pockets.)

Our next lesson involves laying out the pattern and cutting out the pieces.  Stay tuned.

First I need to mention that my cat Spoo Kee is nestled in the front of my robe as if he were a kitten in a sling (and he most certainly is not, he’s so heavy), my hair is done up in curls (Thanks, in part, to Casey’s latest post) and I’m feeling like a cat lady sitting here in my dim craft room (gosh, the June Gloom really has taken hold this year).

Oops, there goes Spoo Kee, he got fed up with me not paying attention to him.  Oh well.

On Sunday I went over to my friend Amy’s place to make green tea cupcakes and felt.  Not the felting of knitted/crocheted things, but with roved wool (I think that’s what it’s called anyway).  I’ve never done that before so it was fun to relax and just learn (Amy was a great teacher, by the way).  Sheesh, felting is hard work!  I’ll have to show you my little (it’s so small!) project sometime.  Anyway, Amy served me some yummy homemade split pea soup and I had to take a photo because I was amused to be eating pea green soup while I looked at the pea green matcha cupcakes that just came out of the oven.

Which leads me to more pea green-like things:

This pretty, almost vintage-looking cotton voile print that I’m using for my latest vintage sewing project.  I love these colors together: turquoise and pea green and marigold and melon.  Sweet but not overly so.  Don’t you love the ruffles?  Here’s the pattern, from the Chicago Tribune, 1951, #2359:

(I love how I can post these wide photos on my new blog!) The whole neckline part has been funny to work with.  I’ve had to read the directions a few times just to understand what was going on (and because I started do it it “my own way” which was wrong).  I really love this dress, I hope it turns out okay!  I might use this vintage lucite buckle I have for the belt but I haven’t decided for sure.

Anyhow, I’m thinking of doing a series of posts about my sewing habits, mainly what tools I use and possibly walking through a simple pattern for those of you who don’t know how to sew from a pattern but want to learn.

QUESTION: Is a sew along-type of thing something you would be interested in?  What if I make another of my version of this Built by Wendy dress and document the process on this blog?

Besides sharing my projects with you (which, of course, is a lot of fun) I’d like to help some folks get started with some basic sewing.  That is, of course, if anyone is interested!

Happy Friday!  I must get back to work now.  Hope you have a lovely weekend. ♥