Ok, so now that you’ve got your tools let’s talk about figuring out the back of patterns and the fabric you’ll need. To recap, if you’re going to follow along in these lessons, you’ll need Simplicity’s Built By Wendy / Built by You #3835. Otherwise I think this post will still be helpful for those that are just learning to sew from patterns. Again, chime in if you disagree or have your own methods to getting yourself ready for a sewing project!
First, you’ll need to get the right size. Any pattern I’ve seen displays the size at the top somewhere as shown here:
This is size D5 which is a range of sizes 4-12. Generally speaking, modern patterns tend to contain multiple sizes unlike vintage patterns which usually only have one. The nice thing about a range is that it is easier to customize the pattern to your measurements. For example, you can cut the bodice a size 8 and the hips a size 12. It’s important to note that pattern sizes, modern or vintage, often don’t correspond to modern ready-to-wear sizes. If you wear a size 12 in modern clothing, it’s very likely you won’t wear a size 12 in a vintage or modern pattern. But don’t worry, the important thing is to know your measurements! Check out this post at Sew Mama Sew! to learn how to measure yourself when you get the chance.
Here’s an overview of the back of the pattern (layouts vary depending on manufacturer):
There are line diagrams of the different views, or versions, that the pattern offers on the left, noted as A, B and C; the letter next to each diagram corresponds to the illustration or photo of that version on the pattern’s front. You also have (starting from the top):
- The names of the different versions (I.e. “Mini-dress”)
- The types of fabrics that are suggested (I think it’s important to adhere to the pattern’s suggestions, especially when you are a beginner)
- Notions you’ll need
- Body measurements and their corresponding sizes
- How much fabric you’ll need for each size, in each view
- Garment measurements (at the bottom)
Garment measurements tell you how big the actual garment is which is usually bigger (unless we’re talking knit fabrics) than your body measurements. How much bigger they are is the garment’s ease. To be really general about it, if a garment’s measurements are a lot bigger than the corresponding body measurements, then you could say that it has a lot of ease (like in a Muumuu!). If there is little difference then you could say there is little ease and the garment is meant to be fitted. Zero or negative ease is something you would likely find in knitted garments that have lots of stretch.
So when you pick out the pattern you like, check the back and find your measurements so you can pick out the size:
Few women fall into one size exactly. Each pattern manufacturer is different and after you’ve gained more experience you may find that, for example, company X tends to run a bit big on you and you’d need to go down a size. Also, it may depend on the garment you are making. For example, if you are making a dress with a full skirt and your hip measurement is significantly different from the hip measurement in the stated size, you may be home free since often times a good fit would not depend on the skirt part. On the other hand, your hip measurement is key when making a pair of trousers.
If your pattern contains multiple sizes, you could (like I said before) cut out the most appropriate size for that body part. (We’ll talk more about these things and garment ease in the post about cutting out your pattern pieces.) Pattern #3835, which features an loose-fitting a-line dress, does not rely on the waist and hip measurements too much. For this particular pattern, I think it’s a good idea to pick the size based on your bust measurement (And round up if needed).
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The modern, old-fashioned dress we’re going to make is essentially View C, which is the top, but longer, with darts and pockets like View A; It also has a ruffled hem and elastic waistband with ribbon tie.
You’ll need to round up the following:
- The amount of fabric stated in your size for View A + an extra 1/4 yd (You may have extra fabric left over, especially if you range in the smaller sizes, but it’s better to be safe than sorry!)*
- Coordinating thread
- One package 1/4″ wide elastic
- One package 1/2″ wide elastic
- One package hem tape or seam binding
- 1″ or 1 1/2″ wide ribbon: To get the length take your natural waist measurement and add 28″ (Or more if you want a bigger bow.)**
- Optional: One 20″ zipper, hook and eye***
*The fabric I used is seersucker from Joann’s; it’s a looser weave than traditional seersucker and therefore is softer and drapes better – perfect for summer. I recommend using a lightweight woven cotton or linen fabric for this project which includes calico and quilt-weight fabric. Keep in mind that if the fabric you choose is stiff (like some quilt fabrics can be) then your dress will be stiff too; sometimes washing the fabrics helps with that but not always. (By the way, I suggest that you wash your fabric before the next post!) For these sewing lessons, I picked out some vintage mint green and white gingham (see first photo).
**I used petersham or French grosgrain ribbon for my dress. Petersham looks similar to regular grosgrain ribbon except the edges are bumpy – this has to do with how the ribbon is woven and this kind of ribbon is more flexible than regular grosgrain (which is why it is often used for curves like in a waistband or around a hat). I also washed the ribbon and it turned out really soft. You don’t have to get petersham ribbon if you cannot find it – any ribbon you like should do.
***I omitted the zipper in this dress (Simply put, I do not enjoy installing them) and won’t be going over how to put one in for this project. Omitting the zipper should be fine for most people but if you consider yourself a busty gal, you might need it. (If, in general, you avoid non-knit dresses and tops that slip over your head because they don’t work for you, consider putting a zipper in. There are many books and tutorials online for this; Sorry, the one I was going to suggest is experiencing technical difficulties. If anyone can suggest a good tutorial for installing zippers PLEASE leave a comment! Thank you!)
OR, if you don’t like the ruffle or cinched waist you could skip my additions and make a more simple version like I did here:
(Cute Japanese print with red and white striped pockets.)
Our next lesson involves laying out the pattern and cutting out the pieces. Stay tuned. 
Ok, so I started making the version in the middle. The yoke was looking quite funky, prim and unflattering (Which is sad because I thought the yoke was cool!) so I opted to use the blouse neckline and short sleeves too. I still added the patch pockets. I decreased the ease quite a bit to make it look more form-fitting which, in my opinion, is normally more flattering for us petite ladies. And even though I did that, I was delighted by the fact that I could completely omit the back zipper! (This is something that would only work if you were, um, small busted.)
